New PC...recommendation?

[Achilles]

I've been eyeballing this for OS and essential programs such as Firefox and plug-ins, etc.

Based on what I've read here, it seems that smart money is to go a tad bit larger and not run my games from spindle drives?

[Q]

Lately, the best deals have been on the 120GB models. I've seen them dip to $1.40/GB on numerous occasions, while the 60GB models are usually $1.75-$2.00/GB (as are the 250GB ones). Since you should use only 75% of the capacity of an SSD to allow TRIM (Windows 7's wear-leveling trick) to do its job, I think that you'd be better off in the long run if you went with a 120. Bigger SSDs like a 120 also have the added benefit of higher performance (sometimes much higher) because the data is evenly distributed amongst a higher number of chips. These chips then work together to provide higher throughput, much like a RAID array does, so the more the better.

As for games, if near-instantaneous load times sound good to you, you'll definitely want to install them on the SSD, but even with 65-70GB to work with (.75*120GB-20 to 25GB for Windows) you're going to run out of space pretty fast. I've managed to think of a workaround, however:

Originally Posted by Me

I thought this third one up myself, though someone else has probably already thought of it and I just haven't read about it. Games take up a lot of space, and, if you're like me, you've got a lot of games. My solution is simple. You can install them all and then move the installation folders over to the spindle drive, keeping only the folders of the games that you're presently playing on the SSD and switching them out when you need to. It's not a perfect solution, but at least you won't have to keep uninstalling/reinstalling your games.

Since the generation 3 drives are starting to be released, there's a decent chance that prices will drop on the generation 2 drives, and that's when I'll most likely buy one.

[Achilles]

I had seen that post which was the primary reason that I was starting to second guess the 60GB drive.

Seems like it might be worth my while to wait a little longer to see what happens to pricing.

[Liverandbacon]

Originally Posted by Achilles

I had seen that post which was the primary reason that I was starting to second guess the 60GB drive.

Seems like it might be worth my while to wait a little longer to see what happens to pricing.

ohmigod guys guys guys! we're all waiting for them to be cheaper, we can go shopping together and buy matching SSDs to be like triplets!! That would be ADORABLE!!1!

Seriously though, if one of you sees one that's a really good deal, let me know. I'll do the same if I see one. A quick startup, and near-instant game loading, are way more important to me than a few extra polygons. Although I'll miss reading some of the information some games put on loading screens, that's a small sacrifice.

[Achilles]

Based on what Q has been saying, I'm leaning in this direction.

I'm still reeling over the jump from 2 cores to 6, DDR2 to DDR3, and working with a 64-bit OS. When the honeymoon starts to wear off and I feel need to spice things up a bit, I'll probably start looking to buy (but will continue to resist the urge to do so now).

EDIT: According to this the 320s are still a bit more pricey than MSRP, so that might be incentive for waiting as well.

[Q]

The Intel 320 series doesn't offer a huge advantage over its previous generation. Really.

If your motherboard doesn't have a good built-in SATA 3 controller like the P67's then you're better off getting the best SATA 2 SSD that you can find.

Originally Posted by Liverandbacon

Seriously though, if one of you sees one that's a really good deal, let me know. I'll do the same if I see one.

It's a deal. I'll keep an eye out for all of us.

[Achilles]

I must have mis-read: I thought the 320's were SATA II. I guess I'll keep looking at the X25's. Is it worth $5 for 25nm vs 34nm or does the alleged performance gain come from something else?

Also, I got my tax return direct deposited last night. I might not be waiting after all

[Achilles]

Btw: this was showing as Out of Stock this morning. Apparently they processed a shipment today.

[Q]

OK, here goes. Newegg's got a promo code for 10% off of SSDs, but you can only use it if you sign up for their newsletter. If you're not signed up, you can do so and the code should still work. Combine that with the mail-in rebate and you can get this drive for $162.

OCZ is not my first choice, but this is the best deal going on a SandForce 1200 SSD right now.

Originally Posted by Achilles

I must have mis-read: I thought the 320's were SATA II.

Actually, I misread. They're SATA 2.

Originally Posted by Achilles

I guess I'll keep looking at the X25's. Is it worth $5 for 25nm vs 34nm or does the alleged performance gain come from something else?

I've read that 34nm is actually preferable because the overall capacity is higher.

[Achilles]

IDK, now that you have me doing me doing my homework, I'm leery of OCZ. The consensus seems to be that they are the fastest drive, but also the most unreliable. Obviously, the popular opinion can be wrong.

I get the newegg newsletter so thanks for the heads up on the promo code.

I've read that 34nm is actually preferable because the overall capacity is higher.

My apologies for the dumb question, but you know this stuff much better than I do: higher capacity as in through-put or...?

EDIT: Read the following in the advertisement you linked to:

"Only available while funds last. Promo code valid through 4/17/2011 or sooner based on fund availability.

Decided not to risk it and placed my order for this (the X25 was showing out of stock again). I guess I'll just cross my fingers and hope that the 320 (w/ 25nm architecture) doesn't turn out to be a mistake.

P.S. $214 after shipping. Not the deal that you posted but I feel ok at $1.73/GB.

[Q]

I don't blame you one bit for not trusting OCZ. Like I said, they're not my first choice. Intel makes the most reliable SSDs out there and I'm sure it will serve you well.

It will work best if you do a fresh installation of Windows on it instead of transferring your OS partition from your platter drive. I know it's pain, but it'll be worth it. Before you install Windows, make sure that your drive controller is set to AHCI in the BIOS. If your motherboard has its own AHCI drivers, you'll want to put them on a thumb drive and install them right after format and right before you install Windows (there's an "install driver" option). Otherwise, Windows 7's AHCI drivers will do just fine.

Enjoy the drive. I'll be interested in hearing about the difference it makes, which will most likely be dramatic.

[Liverandbacon]

Originally Posted by Achilles

"Only available while funds last. Promo code valid through 4/17/2011 or sooner based on fund availability.

Decided not to risk it and placed my order for this (the X25 was showing out of stock again). I guess I'll just cross my fingers and hope that the 320 (w/ 25nm architecture) doesn't turn out to be a mistake.

P.S. $214 after shipping. Not the deal that you posted but I feel ok at $1.73/GB.

Funnily enough, right after logging off earlier, I checked my email, and saw that Newegg newsletter. I ended up making the same decision you did. As you said, 1.73/GB doesn't hurt too much.

Now for the waiting part. Luckily every purchase I've made with Newegg has been shipped inhumanly fast.

[Achilles]

Originally Posted by Evil Q

It will work best if you do a fresh installation of Windows on it instead of transferring your OS partition from your platter drive.

This is not what I wanted to hear.

I purchased Win7 through a school program via my alma mater. The digital copy I still have (but apparently can't help because the install disk needs to be an iso) but the $20 "back-up" disk has been lost. Transfer is my only option

Originally Posted by Liverandbacon

Luckily every purchase I've made with Newegg has been shipped inhumanly fast.

Two weeks ago, I had my first negative experience with NewEgg. To their credit, they very quickly responded to my complaint and refunded my shipping costs very promptly. I ordered on a Friday. Part of the order shipped from CA (it was processed on Friday, shipped on Monday, and arrived on Wednesday). The rest shipped from TN. It was acknowledged on Monday, processed on Tuesday (thereby missing their 24-48 hour claim), and scheduled to deliver on Thursday. UPS dropped the ball somewhere and I didn't get it until Friday (a full week after I ordered it).

Grand scheme of things; not that big of a deal. However if you tell me one thing and then do another, that upsets me. Like I said though, they were great about refunding my shipping costs. I'm hopeful that my previous order was a one-off.

[Q]

Originally Posted by Achilles

This is not what I wanted to hear.

I purchased Win7 through a school program via my alma mater. The digital copy I still have (but apparently can't help because the install disk needs to be an iso) but the $20 "back-up" disk has been lost. Transfer is my only option

Try this. There are other options if that doesn't work.

For added convenience, you might want to backup and restore your activation beforehand.

[Achilles]

Originally Posted by Evil Q

Try this. There are other options if that doesn't work.

I saw "digital river" and my nervous tick came back. Yeesh.

Originally Posted by Evil Q

For added convenience, you might want to backup and restore your activation beforehand.

Good advice.

This is fantastic, Q. As always, you've been more than helpful.

[Achilles]

FYI: Q, that link you post has a link to this page. The amazon links appear to be dead, but the downloads from Digital River all appear to be live. Win 7 anyone?

[Q]

No good without a valid product key.

[Achilles]

Originally Posted by Evil Q

Second, since you've got 8GB of RAM, you can minimize the page file and make the minimum and maximum sizes the same, so that it takes up a consistent amount of space on the SSD. I do not recommend moving it to the spindle drive like I've read elsewhere, however.

Q, would you make this same recommendation for someone using 4GB? I've never used more than 1.8.

Originally Posted by Evil Q

Remember to use no more than 75% of your SSD's capacity so that TRIM will have the necessary free space to do its job.

Should I consider enabling disk quotas or will that 75% come out of that as well?

Also, is there a way to confirm that TRIM is running?

One more: I thought Win7 would disable Defrag if it detected a SSD? Or is the "Never run" what is meant by "disabled"?

[Q]

Originally Posted by Achilles

Q, would you make this same recommendation for someone using 4GB? I've never used more than 1.8.

The debate over what to do with the page file is as old as the page file itself. Some people advocate eliminating it entirely, which is crazy. In your case, I would just let Windows manage it, because it probably won't go over 4GB. As for people with 6 or 8GB of RAM I would consider limiting it to 2-3GB.

Originally Posted by Achilles

Should I consider enabling disk quotas or will that 75% come out of that as well?

You know, I've never messed around with disk quotas, so I don't know if Windows would prevent TRIM from using the other 25% with them enabled. Personally, I'd always planned just to watch disk space usage and not let it get over 90GB on a 120GB SSD.

Originally Posted by Achilles

Also, is there a way to confirm that TRIM is running?

Not that I'm aware of, no, but you can verify whether or not it's enabled:

Originally Posted by Engineer

But you can check on the status of TRIM at the OS level (Win 7) and also enable or disable it via command line:

TRIM Commands

Go to the Command Prompt and type:

fsutil behavior query disabledeletenotify

DisableDeleteNotify = 1 (Windows TRIM commands are disabled)
DisableDeleteNotify = 0 (Windows TRIM commands are enabled)


To enable TRIM (if it's disabled), go to command prompt and type:

fsutil behavior set disabledeletenotify 0


To disable TRIM, to go command prompt and type:

fsutil behavior set disabledeletenotify 1

I would use an elevated command prompt for this.

You can also "kick-start" TRIM by emptying the recycle bin or performing disk cleanup, but as far as actually verifying that it's working, I've never heard of any way of doing that.

Originally Posted by Achilles

One more: I thought Win7 would disable Defrag if it detected a SSD? Or is the "Never run" what is meant by "disabled"?

It does. I'm paranoid and would probably check anyway, but that's just me.